Wednesday, 29 May 2013

we have been reviewed by mark taylor

Eating out in Bristol - Mark Taylor reviews Katie & Kim's Kitchen, Kingsdown

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Friday, May 24, 2013
Katie & Kim's Kitchen started life as a supper club run from a house in Horfield before setting up in a converted horsebox on Stokes Croft.

Run by former art students Katie Houston and Kim Glegg, the business has gained something of a cult following in the city over the past years – as well as making the finals of the British Street Food Awards – and many regulars were left bereft when they closed the horsebox and took a few months off.

Katie and Kim's Kitchen made a welcome return this month, as a Saturday-only operation within The Hillgrove Porter Stores pub.

An imposing redbrick Victorian boozer clinging to the steep hills of Kingsdown, The Hillgrove Porter Stores is an inviting pub with comfortable old leather armchairs and sofas.
A beer drinker's paradise, it has no less than ten handpumps dispensing real ales, most of them from the local Dawkins Ales brewery that owns the pub.

The menu changes every week and recent choices have included baked lamb mince served on homemade flatbread with carrot, cumin and tzatziki and chorizo and chickpea stew.
When I visited, the blackboard menu included bacon sandwiches on homemade bread with aioli, slow-roasted tomatoes and basil oil (£5) and sausage rolls with apple and sage (£3).

At 1.30pm, there was a slow trickle of customers but then this is a part of the city that doesn't really wake up on a Saturday until the afternoon and the pub got busier as the day wore on.
Clutching a pint of golden and hoppy Isle of Purbeck Solar Power ale, I grabbed a table and settled down with the day's newspapers as I waited for my food.

I ordered the Gruyere tart (£5), which was steaming hot with a deep, wobbly filling contained within its crisp buttery pastry shell. The cheese gave a tangy punch and it worked well with the accompanying salad of sweet and earthy beetroot, dribble of pungent wild garlic pesto and sprinkling of wild garlic flowers.

For fear of a pastry overload, I saved one of the custard tarts (£2) for later that day but it was well made and Portuguese in style with the deep yellow custard encased in puff pastry.

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